The big news is it connects to corvettes properly, and controls transmission line pressure and EGR duty cycle.
We need B-Body owners to help test connectivity on those cars (especially caddies)
Controls are now done in an ‘expert’ and ‘basic’ mode, so new users don’t have to be afraid of accidentally modifying line pressure while driving and breaking their car…
27 thoughts on “EEHack 4.6 Released”
So far so good on my B body
How do I get this to work? It doesn’t connect because my computer doesn’t have a serial port… My old laptop didn’t have one either, and it worked fine with the old version. I have a 95 z28 with the 16 pin dlc. My cable is a usb cable, and worked fine before the 4.6 update. Any help or links to the older versions would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance, and thanks for an awesome program!
it isn’t failing to connect because you don’t have a serial port; your “usb cable” is actually serial interface, that’s how all aldl usb cables work.
do you mean your interface isn’t showing up in the settings window?
definitely need more details to address this issue.
Im having problems with it connecting to my corvette after connecting and disconnecting many times it will work fine maybe I dont know what the deal is when its working it does fine just getting it to do so is kinda a challenge sometimes
Hi,download bin from ecm run 20 second after disconnect message error?
Steve – thanks for the great program. Using this program on a 95 b-body with OBD1, I’m getting all sorts of connection errors. It keeps telling me (Serial port error?) in the log, yet the cable works a-ok with Scan9495.
What do you need to know? I have a 94lt1 from a fleetwood in my 87 Camaro. I connected tonight and all seemed fine, ran the test and then did a few data logs for a longish cruise.
I get “serial waited too long in serial read packet”. New to using the program
Just something to know, the auto tune bit on this site is not working. i get a 500 error or something to the extent of a file not being found. i appreciate your work so much. i really couldnt do much without your tips and resources or even the program. No tuners in texas will even touch my car because it is obd1 so you have saved my ability to move forward with my plans. keep up the good work, and i hope to be able to help you develop this in the near future.
thanks for the heads up, i’ll fix it soon
Trying to connect my 1994 lt1 corvette and I too am getting serial error. All drivers are updated. SERIAL WAITED TO LONG is the error I keep getting.
Hey guys, I am going to try and flash with your software. I reset my old computer and lost my tuning stuff. I never could flash with tunercats or TunerPro. I don’t remember the reason but it would crap out at the end.
The auto tuner page is 404ing on submit? Hope you can fix it. It was really handy and would save me a lot of time. Thanks man!
Sorry, I keep forgetting to fix that autotune page. I’ll get to it soon.
fixed autotune thing:
My flashes crash when trying to write my PCM. I get memory write error and have to reset the battery. I tried last year with winflash and tunerproRT with the same results.
I can datalog (occasional connection reset every 5-10min), download bins and pass all tests fine on all the programs. It fails when starting the write process. I have a RDR USB-ALDL cable, 1994 z28 M6, Qosmio laptop i7, 24g Ram, tried windows 8.0 and 8.1. I only have the 3.0 blue USBs. I tried XP in virtual and same results.
I tried deleting and installing older drivers. Unplugged fan relays, cleaned grounds and bought new car battery. Changed COM ports and USB ports. I ordered a FT232RL FTDI to make a new cable.
Ever hear of this? Someone on LTXtech said a different cable worked for him. He had RDR cable too.
it could be the interface. definitely worth trying another cable… let me know how it goes. does winflash work?
Winflash fails the same way if I recall. I tried it last year. I get a lot of “SERIAL: ECHO CORRUPT! (bad serial interface?)”
I don’t have much knowledge on ALDL or serial protocols. My new FTDI chip will arrive soon.
Last night I decided to try one last time and unplug all fuses besides the PCM ones and it fails the same way.
I get can’t upload T-side erase failure, can’t upload VPP failure then I have to reset.
i’d tend to assume the new cable will work ok, but it’s also possible you have some noise on the ALDL line for some reason…
if you get a new cable and it doesn’t fix the problem let me know, we can do some more tests. having the connection reset all the time isn’t really normal either.
Good news I wired the new FTDI chip and it flashed this time! I have a question though. I tried to copy the RDR cable and used these pins – Pins E and M together to Tx/Rx. Pin A to GND and Pin B to some other connector DTR maybe? My question is do I need both pins E and M together and pin B to make the flash work?
it’s a two wire serial connection using pin M for data (serial tx/rx tied together) and pin A for ground.
all the other pins are unused for this kind of configuration
pin E probably isnt even connected to anything
of course if you rig your cable to pin E as well, the cable will work later on old 160 baud cars
I’m a little new to tuning my 94 lt1 had a problem when I uploaded a new tune adjustment and went to log it again my Lterm left and right are locked at 128 and shows no correction. Ann I missing something that needs to be changed to grow it. Thanks Gary
Are the INT numbers changing? The PCM waits for coolant temp, O2 sensor temp. If these are not working correctly it won’t switch.
Also In control tab you can force closed loop and BLM updates.
if i do 96 to 95 PCM in B-Body is there anything i can run to have problem with flashing ?
Ok i have 4.6 Verison (will update tommorow to 4.7) but problem i have. Instaled 1995 PCM in 1996 Impala SS.
PCM is a reman Delco form rockauto number 88961150. Already with some tune (EEHack reads that it already has it patches).
Id does connect, it does scan and control all stuff, but when i try to download current bin it gets key seed error (Mode13). When i try to Test connection it gets error that it cannot go to A state developer mode or something like this and exits testing. Any help ?
oh and i use DYI 12 to 16 pin adapter, connect thru Moates.net cable for OBD1 with Open mode not 10k ohm Mode.
I love to answer my own questions 😀 I had poor chassis ground.